With your Lippert Ground Control 3.0 # LC358590, since you have power to the unit confirmed and have already disconnected the touch pad and controller letting them remain disconnected for more than 15 minutes for reset, you will most likely need to replace the control module. This is the brains of the system and since you can manually retract we don't know the fuses are good so you will want to check them individually on that control module. 9 out of 10 times, replacing the control module... view full answer...
It looks like you have the correct voltage to your Electric Trailer Brake Kit - Self-Adjusting # AKEBRK-7-SA so I recommend re-checking the adjustment. You said they seemed to work but you didn't mention how much you had initially adjusted them. You want there to be a slight drag when you're spinning the wheel by hand without applying the brakes.
It's possible that the brakes are strong enough that you can't spin them by hand with full power applied, but the weight and momentum of your... view full answer...
If the brake fluid that came out when bleeding the brakes after a disc brake conversion # HSE7K-TR1 came out discolored then there's a contaminant or water in the lines somewhere. The only way to clear it out would be to run more fluid through it to pass all of the contaminant out. You'll want to bleed the brake assembly furthest from the actuator first and work your way closer to the actuator. view full answer...
The shore power circuit for your trailer should not have anything to do with the trailer's brakes as they are on completely different circuits and use an entirely different type of current (AC vs. DC). However, if you have a short on the AC power circuit and the circuit is sending power to the trailer frame/body which is commonly referred to as "Hot Skin" then that could then cause the brakes to engage via the ground wire. Therefore, I recommend you disconnect shore power and see if the... view full answer...
I checked with the manufacturer and the tiny screw you're seeing is a set screw. You will use an Allen wrench/key to remove this. I'm attaching a picture with a set of installation instructions for you to refer to when you're replacing the MaxxFan Lift Motor # MA10-20270 . We don't have the new/updated instructions available, but where it refers to a nut holding the blades on to the motor shaft, this is now a set screw like you're seeing. All of the other steps will remain the same. view full answer...
If your touchscreen with the Ground Control 3.0 leveling system is blank but has power, try doing a reconfiguration or reset by pressing the home (silver) button five times. If that does not work it sounds like there is a malfunction within the remote and it will need to be replaced with the Replacement Touchscreen Remote with Charger for Lippert Ground Control 3.0 Electric Leveling System # LC358601. view full answer...
The slide out could be malfunctioning for a number of reasons, but the motor or solenoid can very well be the culprit. Below I've attached a snippet from the manual that goes over how to test both the solenoid # LC118246 and the motor so that you can see if either are bad. You'll also want to check the hydraulic fluid reservoir to ensure there's enough fluid, check the lines for any leaks, and then check your electrical connections for any loose or corroded connections. view full answer...
It sounds like the lift arms aren't able to keep the lid up to the fan's fully-opened height. There are a few things that may cause this.
You may have already tried this, but push the manual knob in when the you've reached the fully-opened position to engage the locking mechanism. If that doesn't solve the problem, there are some troubleshooting steps to take.
First, check to make sure the bolts of the lift arms are fully tightened. If there are loose components, it may not be able to... view full answer...
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